Easy Crocheted Chunky Hoodie Cowl

Why fiddle around with a hat and a scarf when you can wrap up in an all-in-one hoodie cowl! This super-warm accessory is handy to have for outdoor winter walks. Best of all, it’s easy enough for a beginning crocheter to make.

Materials
2 balls Bernat Roving yarn (100 g/3.5 oz/109 m/120 yds), Colour: Lichen / 10 mm hook / 3 medium-sized buttons to blend with yarn colour / Finished piece is 38” L x 11” W before blocking or finishing.

Instructions
Ch 48

Row 1: (sc, hdc, dc) in third ch from hook; *skip next 2 chs; (sc, hdc, dc) in next ch; repeat from * to last 3 chs; sk next 2 chs, hdc in last ch, turn.

Row 2: ch 2; *(sc, hdc, dc) in next dc; repeat from * to end; hdc in top of turning ch-2, turn.

Repeat Row 2 until piece is approx. 11” deep.Finishing: Block first, then fold in half lengthwise and seam approx. 10” down from fold. Sew on 3 buttons (spaced as shown) and use spaces between stitches to fasten over buttons.

The Halstead Shawl…Like a warm hug

This is a good choice for beginners who have mastered the basic stitches and now want to expand their skills by trying their hand at making a shawl. The entire shawl is made with simple double crochet stitches, and the pattern is very easy to follow. 

Get the free pattern at the Berroco website
You can find the pattern at the Berroco yarn website (along with lots of other free crochet and knit patterns). Here’s the link: https://www.berroco.com/patterns/halstead

To make the shawl pictured, I used:
– 2 balls Red Heart super saver Stripes (5 oz/141 g/236 yds/215 m) Colour: Sutherland Stripe
– 1 ball denim blue yarn for edging (I just matched a blue yarn I already had on my shelves to the shade of blue that was in the Stripes yarn—feel free to use any colour of preference that will match one of the colours in the striping)
– 6 mm hook 

With the Red Heart yarn, my shawl is more of a chunky look, and I’ll use it as a warm shawl/scarf under my coat. I would definitely like to try the same pattern again with a fine, lace-weight yarn that would give it more of a slinky/drapey appearance—more of a dressy result. The type of yarn that you use makes a big difference to the look you’re trying to achieve.

Crocheted Unisex Pocket Scarf

This so-easy-to-make winter scarf not only looks great, it also features two pockets that you can use to carry around your phone and other odds and ends when you’re walking outdoors. It was quick to make—I finished it over a couple of nights while watching Netflix. It makes a great gift too!

Materials: Bernat CozyStyle yarn [16 oz/454 g/978 yds/894 m] / 6 mm hook / Scarf is 68” L x 6” W / Each pocket is 5” W x 6” D [Note: If you use this particular yarn, you’ll still have half the ball left over once the project is finished.]

Scarf: Ch 250

Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and in each across, turn.

Row 2: ch 1 [does not count as a stitch], sc in first sp, skip 2 sps, *(sc, ch 1, sc) in next sp, skip 2 sps, repeat from * across, end with sc in last sp, turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc in same sp, *(sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, repeat from * across, end with sc in last sp, turn.

Row 4-Row 17: repeat Row 3. [If you want a wider scarf, just keep repeating Row 3 until you’ve reached your desired width.] Do not fasten off.

Last Row: [You’ll now use the (sc, ch 1, sc) to create a border around the scarf]: ch 1, sc in same sp [use a marker to mark this sc], work (sc, ch 1, sc) in each ch-1 sp, place 3 sc in the first corner, and when you’re working along the short ends, place your (sc, ch 1, sc) in spaces as evenly across as possible. Keep working around to marked sc and sl st in that sc to close. Fasten off and weave in end.

Pockets [make 2]: Ch 17
[Now, you’ll follow the same pattern as the scarf.]

Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and in each across, turn.

Row 2: ch 1 [does not count as a stitch], sc in first sp, skip 2 sps, *(sc, ch 1, sc) in next sp, skip 2 sps, repeat from * across, end with sc in last sp, turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc in same sp, *(sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, repeat from * across, end with sc in last sp, turn.

Row 4+: repeat Row 3 until you’ve reached your desired pocket depth.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing onto scarf.

Finishing: Working on the right side, pin one pocket to one end of scarf and sew [with a whipstitch] onto scarf using long yarn tail and yarn needle. Repeat this process with the second pocket on the other scarf end.

Crocheted Red Filet Poncho

EASY TO MAKE
The poncho consists of a crocheted rectangle, folded in half lengthwise, then seamed together along the upper side, leaving a 11” space that creates the neckline hole. I finished the neckline with one row of sc around, and added fringe along both open sides.

MATERIALS
1 ball Loops & Threads Woolike yarn (678 yds/3.5 oz/620 m/100 g) in Red / 5.5 mm hook / To resize, use multiples of 12 + 3 / Rectangle size 56” wide x 18” deep / Fits most adults in the S/M range

RECTANGLE PATTERN: Ch 192 + 3
Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each of next 5 ch, (ch 1, sk 1, dc in next ch) 3 times, *dc in each of next 6 ch, (ch 1, sk 1, dc in next ch) 3 times, rep from *, turn.

Row 2: Ch 4, sk (first dc, 1 ch), dc in next dc, (ch 1, sk 1, dc in next dc) twice, dc in each of next 6 dc, *(ch 1, sk 1, dc in next dc) 3 times, dc in each of next 6 dc, rep from * with last dc in 3rd ch of turning ch, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, sk first dc, *dc in each of next 6 dc, (ch 1, sk 1, dc in next dc) 3 times, rep from * with last dc in 3rd ch of turning ch, turn.

Row 4: Ch 3, sk first dc, *(dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc) 3 times, (ch 1, sk dc, dc in next dc) 3 times, rep from * with last dc in 3rd ch of turning ch, turn.

Repeat Rows 2-4 until you reach the measurements listed above, or your desired size.

FINISHING
Fold in half lengthwise and, working on wrong side, seam as shown in picture below.

Working on right side, sc one row around neckline space to finish.

FRINGE: Cut 10” lengths of yarn, fold each in half and pull through each ch-1 space along bottom edge. Also add fringe in spaces along both side edges, spacing them as evenly as possible.

Crochet a Shimmer Poncho

IF YOU CAN DO BASIC CROCHET, YOU CAN MAKE THIS

The poncho consists of a crocheted rectangle, folded in half lengthwise, then seamed together along the upper side, leaving an 11” space that creates the neck opening. I finished the neckline with one row of sc around, and added fringe along both open sides.

MATERIALS

Loops & Threads Shimmer Shawl yarn cake, Pink N Black (962 yds/10.58 oz./880 m/300 g.) (You can make this with any similar cake yarn.)

5.5 mm hook / Rectangle size 57” wide x 17.5” deep / Fits most adults

RECTANGLE PATTERN: Ch 211

Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and in each across; turn (210 sc)

Row 2: ch 2 (counts as first hdc); hdc in next space and in each space across; turn (210 hdc)

Row 3: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch); sc in same space and in each across; turn.

Row 4: ch 3 (counts as hdc + ch 1); skip next space; *hdc in next space; ch 1; skip next space; repeat from * across to last 2 spaces; hdc in last 2 spaces; turn.

Row 5: ch 1; sc in each of first 2 hdc; sc in ch-1 space; sc in each hdc and ch-1 sp across; turn. (row of sc)

Row 6: repeat Row 2 (row of hdc)

Row 7: repeat Row 5 (row of sc)

Row 8: repeat Row 2 (row of hdc)

Row 9: repeat Row 5 (row of sc)

Row 10: repeat Row 4 (row of hdc+ch-1)

Row 11: repeat Row 5 (row of sc)

Row 12+: repeat Row 6-Row 11 for pattern, until you reach your desired length. Mine measured 17.5” deep, and I ended up with eight hdc+ch-1 rows (Row 4). To make your poncho longer, just keep repeating pattern rows. End your rectangle on a Row 10.

FINISHING

Fold rectangle in half lengthwise and, working on the wrong side, seam as shown in the drawing below.

Working on the right side, sc one row around neckline space to finish.

FRINGE: Cut 10” lengths of yarn, fold each in half and pull through each ch-1 space along bottom edge. Also add fringe in spaces along both side edges, spacing them as evenly as possible. (See photos below.)

Blue Shells Crocheted Top

This top looks great paired with jeans, and is easy enough for a beginner to make.

Materials:

2 balls Caron Kindness yarn in Dark Navy: 345 yards [315 meters]/198 g) / 5 mm hook / Size small/medium / Vst: (dc, ch 1, dc) in same space / Shell: 3 dc in same space

Upper section of top:

Chain 134 and carefully join into a circle without twisting chain.

Row 1: sc in first chain and in each around, slip stitch to first sc to join.

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next sp, *skip next sp, shell in next sp, skip 2 sps, Vst in next sp, skip next sp; repeat from * around to last 2 sps, dc in each of last 2 sps, sl st to third ch of first ch-3.

Row 3: ch 3, dc in next sp, *Vst in middle sp of next Vst, shell in center dc of shell, repeat from * around to last 2 sps, dc in each of last 2 sps, sl st to third ch of first ch-3.

Row 4: ch 3, dc in next sp, *shell in center dc of next shell, Vst in ch-1 sp of next Vst, repeat from * around to last 2 sps, dc in each of last 2 sps, sl st to third ch of first ch-3.

Continue repeating Row 3 & 4 to desired length (mine measured 9.5” from top to bottom.

Skirt section of top:

Before starting the skirt section, crochet two rows of dc evenly spaced around, with dc’s placed in every space to ensure that the lower skirt will be a bit wider than the top section.

Then repeat with Row 2-4 to create the skirt. I continued the rows until the skirt section measured 8” in length.

Edging for the skirt:

2 dc in first sp, *ch 3, sk 2 sps, sl st in next sp, sk 2 sps, shell in next sp, repeat from * around to last shell before beginning 2-dc, ch 3, sk 2 sps, sl st in next sp, ch 3, dc in same space as first 2-dc pair, join with sl st in top of first (middle) dc. Fasten off and weave in end.

Straps: (make 2)

Row 1: ch 14, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across (13 sc)

Row 2: ch 3, sk 2 sps, shell in next sp, sk 2 sps, Vst in next sp, sk 2 sps, shell in next sp, sk 2 sps, dc in last sp.

Repeat Row 2 back and forth until strap measures approximately 15” long.

Make second strap.

Try on top and use markers to mark out exactly where on the front and back you should attach straps. Then turn piece to the wrong side, pin straps where you’ve marked, and sew each strap end to the top using a yarn needle.

Once the straps are attached, crochet a row of sc around each armhole, and also starting from back neck right around inside straps and front neck.

Crochet a Pink Flamingo Shawl


Summer will be here before you know it, and this shawl has a real tropical vibe–it’s perfect for throwing over your shoulders on a summer evening.

Materials: 1 ball pink ombre self-striping yarn / 6 mm hook / finished size: 48” wide x 31” from top to point

Note: Ch 3 at beginning of each row counts as 1 dc.

ch = chain; sp = space; dc = double crochet; sk = skip

To begin: Ch 4, sl st in first ch to make a ring.

Row 1: In ring: (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in ch-2 sp (which is the center), ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in last dc, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in same sp, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, repeat across from * to centre ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, repeat from * across to last dc, 2 dc in last dc, turn.

Repeat this process, with a 2-dc increase at the beginning and the end of each row, along with a (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in each row’s centre ch-2 sp. Continue until you either run out of yarn or reach your desired size. Add a tassel to each corner (as shown in pictures), if desired.

Meet Octavia the Octopus

What a huggable toy for little ones. I used rainbow yarn for the head/body and made each tentacle in a different colour, but you can also do the entire project in one solid colour. It’s so easy to make, you can complete the whole thing in an evening. The head/body is about 4″ tall (fits in the palm of my hand) and the tentacles are about 6″ long.

Materials:

  • 1 ball of any worsted weight yarn (I used Craftsmart’s Fiesta, for the head/body. Then I just used several different solid colours for the tentacles. It’s a great project for using up scrap yarn.)
  • 8 mm hook
  • Black embroidery floss
  • Fiberfill stuffing for the head/body
  • Yarn needle

Octavia’s head/body:
Ch 4, sl st to make a ring.

Round 1: 6 sc in ring; sl st in first sc to join. (6 sc)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around; sl st in first sc to join. (12 sc)

Round 3: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from * around; sl st in first sc to join.

Round 4: sc in each of first 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, *sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around; sl st in first sc to join.

Round 5: sc in each of first 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, *sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around; sl st in first sc to join.

Round 6: sc in each of first 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, *sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around; sl st in first sc to join.

Round 7-12: sc in each st around; sl st to first sc to join.

Round 13: (decrease round starts here) *sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around; sl st in first sc to join.

Round 14: sc in each st around; sl st to first sc to join.

Round 15: *sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around; sl st in first sc to join.

Round 16: sc in each st around; sl st to first sc to join.

Round 17: *sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around; sl st in first sc to join.

Round 18: *sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around. Stuff with fiberfill.

Round 19: *sc in next st, sc2tog; rep from * around. Do not fasten off (unless you’re changing to a different colour). The head will not yet be completely closed because you need to first crochet the tentacles around the opening, then you will finish by stitching closed what’s left.

Octavia’s tentacles:
Loosely ch 30; sc in second ch from hook, 2 sc in each ch across. When you arrive back at the head, sl st in next st, then ch 30 and repeat for the second tentacle. Repeat the process around until you have 8 tentacles.

Next, use sc2tog to finish closing the open hole, or just use a yarn needle to sl st it together.

Finishing Octavia:
Use the black embroidery thread to embroider on two eyes (big French knots) and a big smiling mouth. I also threaded 6 pieces of yarn at the top of her head and used a ribbon to tie it up in a bow.

She’s ready for cuddling!

Take me out to the ball game… with my new Toronto Blue Jays crocheted tote bag

Have I mentioned that I’m a Toronto Blue Jays fan? So why not make myself a tote bag that screams my allegiance whenever I’m at a game! I crocheted 16 squares in the team’s colours, used red fabric for lining, and stitched everything together. For the strap, I attached a plastic shower ring to either side of the bag, crocheted over them in team colours, then crocheted a wide shoulder strap.

For embellishment, I traced the Blue Jay logo onto white fabric (which I believe is ok, as long as it’s just for personal use and not being sold), as well as the Ontario logo and Canadian maple leaf. Then I coloured them with fabric markers and sewed them onto some of the squares.

No matter what MLB team you root for, you can make yourself a tote bag; just switch up the colours.

Here’s how…

Materials

  • Worsted weight yarn in white (colour A); royal blue (colour B); red (colour C)
  • 5.5 mm crochet hook
  • Yarn needle for weaving in ends
  • 2 round plastic shower hooks (purchased at Dollarama)
  • A large enough piece of matching fabric for lining + needle and thread or sewing machine

Optional: Coordinating thread and sewing needle; thin, white fabric for tracing logos onto; fabric markers

Bullseye Square (Make 16)

Using colour A, ch 4 and slip stitch to make a ring.

Round 1: Ch 3; 11 dc into ring (12 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3; dc in same space; 2 dc in each st around (24 dc) Fasten off colour A and join colour B.

Round 3: With colour B, ch 3; dc in same sp; *2 dc in next sp; dc in next sp; repeat from * around (36 dc)

Round 4: Ch 3; dc in same sp; *2 dc in next sp; dc in each of next 2 sps; repeat from * around (48 dc)

Round 5: Ch 7 (counts as ch 4 + dc and makes the first corner); 2 dc in next sp; *dc in next sp; hdc in each of next 2 sps; sc in each of next 4 sps; hdc in each of next 2 sps; dc in next sp; 2 dc in next sp; ch 4 (next corner); 2 dc in next sp; repeat from * around. Sl st in third ch of ch-7 to close. Fasten off colour B and attach colour C.

Round 6: To make red border, sc in each dc around, with 3 sc in each corner space. Fasten off and weave in end.

Assembly Instructions
Fasten squares together, following layout and using red yarn to slip stitch squares together on wrong side.

Lining
Fold lining fabric to double, then lay tote on it, with tote bottom lined up to fabric fold. Cut lining about half-inch larger than tote, then seam (quarter-inch) both sides of lining together on sewing machine. I then stuffed the lining into the tote bag, and used a needle and thread to secure the lining to the tote bag, just inside, around the top of the lining. I’m not very patient with a needle and thread, so yours may look much neater.
Shoulder strap
Next, I attached a shower ring to each side of the tote bag, through the corner spaces. Once clipped on securely, I then did a round of sc around them until the rings were completely covered. I did one ring in the colour B, and the other in colour C.
I made the strap two-toned, one side in colour B, the other in colour C.

Using your 5 mm hook and starting with colour B, ch 9; sc in second ch from hook and in each across (8 sc)

Turn, sc in each across. Continue back and forth for an even 8 sc in every row until the blue part of the strap is approx. 22 inches. Fasten off and attach colour C. Then continue crocheting rows of 8 sc until you’ve finished another 22 inches in colour C. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Next, attach the red end of the strap to the blue ring, and the blue end of the other end of the strap to the red ring.

To attach, simply fold the red strap end around the top of the blue circle, and using your yarn needle and the tail, sew the edge to fasten, just as it looks in the photo. Then cut a a piece of blue yarn long enough for sewing, and do the same with the blue end of the strap and the red ring.

Embellishing
I pulled up a Blue Jays logo on my laptop screen, used my magnifying glass tool to make it the right size to fit in the center of one of my squares, set the white fabric over the screen and held the sides in place with masking tape, then traced the design onto the fabric with a pencil, right from my screen. The computer screen is actually like having a light table—you can trace anything from it.
Once I’d traced 4 copies, I just coloured them in with fabric markers, then ironed over the fabric to set the colour. I did the same with an Ontario logo and a Canada logo.
Then I cut around the logos and used a needle and thread to just sew them onto alternating squares.
Go Jays Go!

Make a Little Luv Baby Sweater using crocheted lace square motifs

I discovered the loveliest crocheted square design called Victorian Lattice Square, designed by Destany Wymor and offered free on her Ravelry page at: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/victorian-lattice-square

The minute I saw it, I decided that I wanted to use it to make myself a lightweight poncho (see the finished poncho in my March 14th post).

After making several squares, it struck me that the first four rounds of the pattern would sure make a cute little motif to put together into a baby sweater. With that thought percolating in my mind, I set aside my poncho project (no, I’m not ADD, but you would think so, the way I jump from project to project!), sketched a rough layout of a baby sweater created from squares, dug some Baby Luv yarn from my stash, and proceeded to make a pile of these motifs. Because they’re so small, they’re quick to make. It only took me a week to make the sweater from start to finish.

In case you’d like to try it, here’s how I made my Little Luv Baby Sweater:

3½” x 3½” Lace Square Motifs
Materials:
1. Any super-fine baby yarn in variegated pastel colors (I used Baby Luv, which you can pick up at Walmart)
2. 6.0 mm hook
3. Yarn needle for weaving in loose ends

How to dc2tog: yo, insert hook in space and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, insert hook in same space, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through last 3 loops.

Abbreviations: chain: ch / slip stitch: sl st / double crochet: dc / single crochet: sc / double crochet 2 together: dc2tog / space: sp / repeat: rep / yarn over: yo

Motif Pattern: (Make 33 motifs)
Round 1: Ch 4, sl st into first ch to make a ring.
Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1); *dc, ch 1; rep from * 10 more times; sl st in 3rd ch of ch-4 to close. [12 dc & 12 ch-1 sps]

Round 2: Sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1 (counts as first dc); dc in same sp, ch 2; *dc2tog in next ch-1 sp, ch 2; rep from * 10 more times; sl st in first sc to close. [12 dc2tog]

Round 3: Sc in next ch-2 sp; *ch 7, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from *, sl st in first sc to close.

Round 4: (Sc, ch 1, 4 dc, ch 2, 5 dc) in ch-7 loop; *sc in next ch-3 loop, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 loop; (5 dc, ch 2, 5 dc) in ch-7 loop; rep from * two more times; sc in next ch-3 loop, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 loop; sl st in first sc to close. Fasten off and weave in loose yarn end.

It’s really easy to connect the motifs into rows as you go, instead of having to sew them together at the end. Here’s how:

To connect motifs as you go (see the numbered photos below): Once you’ve completed your first motif, set it aside and begin working the second motif up to the beginning of Round 4. Work Round 4 like this: (Sc, ch 1, 4 dc, ch 2, 5 dc) in ch-7 loop; sc in next ch-3 loop, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 loop; (5 dc, ch 2, 5 dc) in ch-7 loop; sc in next ch-3 loop, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 loop; *then in next ch-7 loop (1 & 2): 5 dc, ch 1, get the first motif you finished and, with the loop from the ch-1 of your unfinished motif still on the hook, insert the hook into any ch-2 sp (between the 2 sets of 5 dc in a ch-7 loop) of the finished motif, yo pull your yarn through the loop on hook to secure, then ch 1 again, then continue with the second set of 5 dc in the same ch-7 loop of your unfinished motif; (3) sc into next ch-3 loop, then insert hook into ch-3 loop of other motif too and sc again to connect the ch-3 of both motifs, ch 1, then repeat again from * in the next ch-7 loop of your unfinished motif; sc in next ch-3 loop, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 loop; and sl st into the beginning sc to join. Fasten off and weave in loose yarn end.
(1)
These 6 pictures demonstrate attaching motifs corner to corner.
(2) Attaching a new motif to a row. First, attach the corners.
(3) Then, attach the two ch-3 loops.
Then proceed with finishing off the last round of the motif.
Make 2 front panels: Connect a row of 3 motifs, then connect another row of 3 beside them to make the left front panel. Repeat for the right front panel.

Make 1 back panel: For the back panel, connect 3 rows of 3.
Connect each front panel to the back panel at the shoulders. Seam together on the wrong sides by slip stitching with your crochet hook. (If you’d prefer, you can also sew the seam using your yarn needle.)
Make 2 sleeves: Connect 3 rows of 2 motifs for each sleeve.

Then, as shown above, find the mid-point of sleeve and line it up with the shoulder seam of sweater. Use markers or safety pins to attach the sleeve to the sweater body. Turning to the wrong side, seam the sleeve to the body (where the markers are shown) using slip stitching.
Then do the same on the other side of the sweater with your second sleeve.
Below is a shot of the wrong side with everything seamed together.
Next, with right sides still together, fold in half at the shoulder seems and bring the sleeves together. You are now going to sew the sweater together to close the sleeves and sides. Again, I used slip stitching, but you can also sew everything together with your yarn needle, if you prefer.
After everything was seamed, I used plain pink Baby Luv yarn to crochet a border around the sleeve edges, as well as the entire sweater, using two rows of single crochet on the sleeves, and three rows of single crochet around the bottom, front and collar.
Next, I dampened the sweater and blocked it overnight so it would be nice and straight.
Since the style of it is double-breasted, I chose six ¾” buttons and sewed them on as shown below.
I also made a little matching hat embellished with a butterfly!

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