Meet Octavia the Octopus

What a huggable toy for little ones. I used rainbow yarn for the head/body and made each tentacle in a different colour, but you can also do the entire project in one solid colour. It’s so easy to make, you can complete the whole thing in an evening. The head/body is about 4″ tall (fits in the palm of my hand) and the tentacles are about 6″ long.

Materials:

  • 1 ball of any worsted weight yarn (I used Craftsmart’s Fiesta, for the head/body. Then I just used several different solid colours for the tentacles. It’s a great project for using up scrap yarn.)
  • 8 mm hook
  • Black embroidery floss
  • Fiberfill stuffing for the head/body
  • Yarn needle

Octavia’s head/body:
Ch 4, sl st to make a ring.

Round 1: 6 sc in ring; sl st in first sc to join. (6 sc)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around; sl st in first sc to join. (12 sc)

Round 3: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from * around; sl st in first sc to join.

Round 4: sc in each of first 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, *sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around; sl st in first sc to join.

Round 5: sc in each of first 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, *sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around; sl st in first sc to join.

Round 6: sc in each of first 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, *sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around; sl st in first sc to join.

Round 7-12: sc in each st around; sl st to first sc to join.

Round 13: (decrease round starts here) *sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around; sl st in first sc to join.

Round 14: sc in each st around; sl st to first sc to join.

Round 15: *sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around; sl st in first sc to join.

Round 16: sc in each st around; sl st to first sc to join.

Round 17: *sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around; sl st in first sc to join.

Round 18: *sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around. Stuff with fiberfill.

Round 19: *sc in next st, sc2tog; rep from * around. Do not fasten off (unless you’re changing to a different colour). The head will not yet be completely closed because you need to first crochet the tentacles around the opening, then you will finish by stitching closed what’s left.

Octavia’s tentacles:
Loosely ch 30; sc in second ch from hook, 2 sc in each ch across. When you arrive back at the head, sl st in next st, then ch 30 and repeat for the second tentacle. Repeat the process around until you have 8 tentacles.

Next, use sc2tog to finish closing the open hole, or just use a yarn needle to sl st it together.

Finishing Octavia:
Use the black embroidery thread to embroider on two eyes (big French knots) and a big smiling mouth. I also threaded 6 pieces of yarn at the top of her head and used a ribbon to tie it up in a bow.

She’s ready for cuddling!

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Take me out to the ball game… with my new Toronto Blue Jays crocheted tote bag

Have I mentioned that I’m a Toronto Blue Jays fan? So why not make myself a tote bag that screams my allegiance whenever I’m at a game! I crocheted 16 squares in the team’s colours, used red fabric for lining, and stitched everything together. For the strap, I attached a plastic shower ring to either side of the bag, crocheted over them in team colours, then crocheted a wide shoulder strap.

For embellishment, I traced the Blue Jay logo onto white fabric (which I believe is ok, as long as it’s just for personal use and not being sold), as well as the Ontario logo and Canadian maple leaf. Then I coloured them with fabric markers and sewed them onto some of the squares.

No matter what MLB team you root for, you can make yourself a tote bag; just switch up the colours.

Here’s how…

Materials

  • Worsted weight yarn in white (colour A); royal blue (colour B); red (colour C)
  • 5.5 mm crochet hook
  • Yarn needle for weaving in ends
  • 2 round plastic shower hooks (purchased at Dollarama)
  • A large enough piece of matching fabric for lining + needle and thread or sewing machine

Optional: Coordinating thread and sewing needle; thin, white fabric for tracing logos onto; fabric markers

Bullseye Square (Make 16)

Using colour A, ch 4 and slip stitch to make a ring.

Round 1: Ch 3; 11 dc into ring (12 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3; dc in same space; 2 dc in each st around (24 dc) Fasten off colour A and join colour B.

Round 3: With colour B, ch 3; dc in same sp; *2 dc in next sp; dc in next sp; repeat from * around (36 dc)

Round 4: Ch 3; dc in same sp; *2 dc in next sp; dc in each of next 2 sps; repeat from * around (48 dc)

Round 5: Ch 7 (counts as ch 4 + dc and makes the first corner); 2 dc in next sp; *dc in next sp; hdc in each of next 2 sps; sc in each of next 4 sps; hdc in each of next 2 sps; dc in next sp; 2 dc in next sp; ch 4 (next corner); 2 dc in next sp; repeat from * around. Sl st in third ch of ch-7 to close. Fasten off colour B and attach colour C.

Round 6: To make red border, sc in each dc around, with 3 sc in each corner space. Fasten off and weave in end.

Assembly Instructions
Fasten squares together, following layout and using red yarn to slip stitch squares together on wrong side.

Lining
Fold lining fabric to double, then lay tote on it, with tote bottom lined up to fabric fold. Cut lining about half-inch larger than tote, then seam (quarter-inch) both sides of lining together on sewing machine. I then stuffed the lining into the tote bag, and used a needle and thread to secure the lining to the tote bag, just inside, around the top of the lining. I’m not very patient with a needle and thread, so yours may look much neater.
Shoulder strap
Next, I attached a shower ring to each side of the tote bag, through the corner spaces. Once clipped on securely, I then did a round of sc around them until the rings were completely covered. I did one ring in the colour B, and the other in colour C.
I made the strap two-toned, one side in colour B, the other in colour C.

Using your 5 mm hook and starting with colour B, ch 9; sc in second ch from hook and in each across (8 sc)

Turn, sc in each across. Continue back and forth for an even 8 sc in every row until the blue part of the strap is approx. 22 inches. Fasten off and attach colour C. Then continue crocheting rows of 8 sc until you’ve finished another 22 inches in colour C. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Next, attach the red end of the strap to the blue ring, and the blue end of the other end of the strap to the red ring.

To attach, simply fold the red strap end around the top of the blue circle, and using your yarn needle and the tail, sew the edge to fasten, just as it looks in the photo. Then cut a a piece of blue yarn long enough for sewing, and do the same with the blue end of the strap and the red ring.

Embellishing
I pulled up a Blue Jays logo on my laptop screen, used my magnifying glass tool to make it the right size to fit in the center of one of my squares, set the white fabric over the screen and held the sides in place with masking tape, then traced the design onto the fabric with a pencil, right from my screen. The computer screen is actually like having a light table—you can trace anything from it.
Once I’d traced 4 copies, I just coloured them in with fabric markers, then ironed over the fabric to set the colour. I did the same with an Ontario logo and a Canada logo.
Then I cut around the logos and used a needle and thread to just sew them onto alternating squares.
Go Jays Go!

Make a Little Luv Baby Sweater using crocheted lace square motifs

I discovered the loveliest crocheted square design called Victorian Lattice Square, designed by Destany Wymor and offered free on her Ravelry page at: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/victorian-lattice-square

The minute I saw it, I decided that I wanted to use it to make myself a lightweight poncho (see the finished poncho in my March 14th post).

After making several squares, it struck me that the first four rounds of the pattern would sure make a cute little motif to put together into a baby sweater. With that thought percolating in my mind, I set aside my poncho project (no, I’m not ADD, but you would think so, the way I jump from project to project!), sketched a rough layout of a baby sweater created from squares, dug some Baby Luv yarn from my stash, and proceeded to make a pile of these motifs. Because they’re so small, they’re quick to make. It only took me a week to make the sweater from start to finish.

In case you’d like to try it, here’s how I made my Little Luv Baby Sweater:

3½” x 3½” Lace Square Motifs
Materials:
1. Any super-fine baby yarn in variegated pastel colors (I used Baby Luv, which you can pick up at Walmart)
2. 6.0 mm hook
3. Yarn needle for weaving in loose ends

How to dc2tog: yo, insert hook in space and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, insert hook in same space, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through last 3 loops.

Abbreviations: chain: ch / slip stitch: sl st / double crochet: dc / single crochet: sc / double crochet 2 together: dc2tog / space: sp / repeat: rep / yarn over: yo

Motif Pattern: (Make 33 motifs)
Round 1: Ch 4, sl st into first ch to make a ring.
Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1); *dc, ch 1; rep from * 10 more times; sl st in 3rd ch of ch-4 to close. [12 dc & 12 ch-1 sps]

Round 2: Sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1 (counts as first dc); dc in same sp, ch 2; *dc2tog in next ch-1 sp, ch 2; rep from * 10 more times; sl st in first sc to close. [12 dc2tog]

Round 3: Sc in next ch-2 sp; *ch 7, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from *, sl st in first sc to close.

Round 4: (Sc, ch 1, 4 dc, ch 2, 5 dc) in ch-7 loop; *sc in next ch-3 loop, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 loop; (5 dc, ch 2, 5 dc) in ch-7 loop; rep from * two more times; sc in next ch-3 loop, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 loop; sl st in first sc to close. Fasten off and weave in loose yarn end.

It’s really easy to connect the motifs into rows as you go, instead of having to sew them together at the end. Here’s how:

To connect motifs as you go (see the numbered photos below): Once you’ve completed your first motif, set it aside and begin working the second motif up to the beginning of Round 4. Work Round 4 like this: (Sc, ch 1, 4 dc, ch 2, 5 dc) in ch-7 loop; sc in next ch-3 loop, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 loop; (5 dc, ch 2, 5 dc) in ch-7 loop; sc in next ch-3 loop, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 loop; *then in next ch-7 loop (1 & 2): 5 dc, ch 1, get the first motif you finished and, with the loop from the ch-1 of your unfinished motif still on the hook, insert the hook into any ch-2 sp (between the 2 sets of 5 dc in a ch-7 loop) of the finished motif, yo pull your yarn through the loop on hook to secure, then ch 1 again, then continue with the second set of 5 dc in the same ch-7 loop of your unfinished motif; (3) sc into next ch-3 loop, then insert hook into ch-3 loop of other motif too and sc again to connect the ch-3 of both motifs, ch 1, then repeat again from * in the next ch-7 loop of your unfinished motif; sc in next ch-3 loop, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 loop; and sl st into the beginning sc to join. Fasten off and weave in loose yarn end.
(1)
These 6 pictures demonstrate attaching motifs corner to corner.
(2) Attaching a new motif to a row. First, attach the corners.
(3) Then, attach the two ch-3 loops.
Then proceed with finishing off the last round of the motif.
Make 2 front panels: Connect a row of 3 motifs, then connect another row of 3 beside them to make the left front panel. Repeat for the right front panel.

Make 1 back panel: For the back panel, connect 3 rows of 3.
Connect each front panel to the back panel at the shoulders. Seam together on the wrong sides by slip stitching with your crochet hook. (If you’d prefer, you can also sew the seam using your yarn needle.)
Make 2 sleeves: Connect 3 rows of 2 motifs for each sleeve.

Then, as shown above, find the mid-point of sleeve and line it up with the shoulder seam of sweater. Use markers or safety pins to attach the sleeve to the sweater body. Turning to the wrong side, seam the sleeve to the body (where the markers are shown) using slip stitching.
Then do the same on the other side of the sweater with your second sleeve.
Below is a shot of the wrong side with everything seamed together.
Next, with right sides still together, fold in half at the shoulder seems and bring the sleeves together. You are now going to sew the sweater together to close the sleeves and sides. Again, I used slip stitching, but you can also sew everything together with your yarn needle, if you prefer.
After everything was seamed, I used plain pink Baby Luv yarn to crochet a border around the sleeve edges, as well as the entire sweater, using two rows of single crochet on the sleeves, and three rows of single crochet around the bottom, front and collar.
Next, I dampened the sweater and blocked it overnight so it would be nice and straight.
Since the style of it is double-breasted, I chose six ¾” buttons and sewed them on as shown below.
I also made a little matching hat embellished with a butterfly!

Purple Power Pom Pom Hat

This is one of the easiest ways to make a hat without working in the round. You basically just make a rectangle that fits around the circumference of your head, seam the ends together to make a tube, then gather the top to close it, add a border, and you’ve got a cute winter hat that you can make in a night or two. I worked in back and front loops only to add texture that would define the stripes on this hat.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Bernat Premium Worsted (198g/7oz/429m/360yds) 1 ball each Lilac (A) and Purple (B)
6 mm crochet hook
Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Back Loop Only: (BLO) / Front Loop Only: (FLO) / Note: Weave in ends each time you fasten off.

Using Lilac, Ch 34.

Row 1: Working in BLO, hdc in third ch from hook (counts as hdc) and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (32 hdc)

Row 2: Working in FLO, hdc in same sp as ch-1, hdc in each hdc across. (32 hdc) Fasten off Lilac. Attach Dark Purple with slip stitch in Back Loop of hdc just completed. Turn.

Row 3: Working in BLO, hdc in same sp as slip stitch, and in each hdc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Working in FLO, hdc in same sp as ch-1, hdc in each hdc across. Fasten off Dark Purple. Attach Lilac with slip stitch in Back Loop of hdc just completed. Turn.

Row 5: Repeat Row 3.

Row 6: Repeat Row 4. Fasten off Lilac. Attach Dark Purple in Back Loop of hdc just completed. Turn.

Row 7: Continue repeating, alternating BLO and FLO every row, and switching colors every two rows until piece is approx. 24” long. End with Dark Purple. (You should have 9 Lilac stripes and 9 Dark Purple stripes in all.) Do not fasten off.

FINISHING

Bring edges together lengthwise, right sides together, wrong sides facing out, and slip stitch to seam together.

Do not fasten off. Turn right side out. (You’ll have a “tube” shape. You’re going to crochet a border at one end and close the opposite end to form your hat.)Border (brim) of hat: Starting from where you’ve ended your seam without fastening off (on the wrong side), single crochet around the edge of the hat as evenly spaced as possible. Use a marker for continuous rounds. Continue single crocheting around until you’ve finished 4 rows. Fasten off and weave in end.
Top of hat: Cut a piece of yarn about 8” long. At the open end of the hat, on the right side, and using your yarn needle, start about an inch down from the top, and thread the piece of yarn in and out of each hdc around, then pull tight to gather closed and tie a secure knot several times. Cut yarn and weave in ends.

No need to make a pom pom since the gathered material at the top of the hat is decorative enough.

Cozy Hooded Cowl Keeps Baby Warm!

I had some colorful, chunky yarn in my stash that I wanted to experiment with, so I decided to make a couple of little baby hoodies. I’ll guess that they would fit a child about 12 months. They are SO warm, soft and cuddly!

You’ll basically crochet a long rectangle, fold it in half, then seam together the edges on one side, starting from the fold and working down about 8 inches. To finish it, you’ll create a border around all the edges, then add fasteners to keep the bottom front closed.

Materials:

  • 8 mm crochet hook
  • 1 ball of bulky yarn in variegated colors, and one ball in a solid contrasting color
  • Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Instructions:

With variegated yarn, ch 69. Turn.

Row 1: dc in third ch from hook and in each across. Turn. (66 dc)

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next st and in each across. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 five more times. Your rectangle should be approximately 7” wide x 28” long.

Fold in half lengthwise, placing right sides together, wrong sides facing out. Using yarn needle, whipstitch edges together to make a seam where the X’s are shown. Stitch down from the fold about 8”.
It should look like this from the back when you’re finished:
Turn right side out to make your border. Attaching contrasting color at the bottom of your seam, hdc in each st right around entire hoodie. I made it so that it looks like it’s fastened with buttons, but in reality, it just needs to be pulled over the baby’s head. I did this by overlapping one bottom edge over top of the other, stitching them together, and then sewing two buttons on the front just as decoration. You can see what I mean in the photos below. In the blue and green version at the top, I just attached some yarn strings that I’ve tied into bows. You can finish yours however you prefer.

Since Otis is my baby, he was forced to model one!

Warm up with a crocheted Cocoa Tweed Poncho

I really liked the look of Bernat’s brown tweed yarn, so I picked up 2 skeins and decided they would look good crocheted into a poncho. The yarn was really nice to work with, and it did indeed make a nice-looking finished project!

COCOA TWEED PONCHO
Materials:

2 skeins Bernat Premium Tweeds (7oz/198g/360yds/329m) Chocolate Tweed

8 mm hook

Shell = 3 dc in indicated sp

Note: Make 2 panels using the pattern below. I didn’t bother blocking this project since the yarn didn’t seem to need it.

Panel A:

Ch 60 + 2.

Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, *(sk 2 chs, shell in next, ch 2, sk 2, sc in next), rep from * to end, turn.

Row 2: ch 5, sc in first dc of next shell, *ch 5, sc in first dc of next shell), rep from * to last shell, ch 2, sk 2, dc in last st, turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc in same st as ch-1, *(shell in next sc, ch 2, sc in third ch of next ch-5 loop), rep from * across, shell in last sc, ch 2, sc in top of beg ch-3, turn.

Repeat Row 2 & 3 consecutively for 34 rows (ending with a Row 3), or until your rectangle is approximately 35” long.

Follow directions for Panel A to create your second rectangle (Panel B).

Construction

With wrong sides facing you, use a yarn needle to whipstitch the panels together as shown by the pink X’s.

Next, with wrong sides still facing you, fold the edge of Panel A over to the side of Panel B as shown by the arrows below. Whipstitch to seam together. When you’ve finished, turn right side out and smooth out into poncho shape.

Neckline

For a cleaner look and a better fit, we’ll make a border around the neckline, working on the right side. Attach yarn with a slip stitch anywhere on the neckline, and do an even row of sc around. Instead of joining when you arrive back at your first sc, use a marker and do continuous rounds so there’s no seam line. Do four more rounds of sc, then fasten off and weave in end.

Bottom Border

Also working on the right side, attach yarn with a slip stitch anywhere on the bottom edge, and do an evenly spaced row of sc right around. Again, use a marker and do continuous rounds for a better-looking finish. I did five rounds of sc for my border, but you can continue with more rounds if you want to make the poncho longer. After five rounds, fasten off and weave in end.

Sparkle Shawl

On one of my many trips to Michael’s, I discovered Lion Brand’s Shawl in a Ball yarn and absolutely fell in love with the metallic versions, particularly “Prism.” The blend of colors immediately brought back visions of exploring undersea reefs during some of my snorkeling adventures in the Caribbean.I knew right away that I wanted to use Prism to make a shawl that I could throw around my shoulders in the evening on my next cruise or beach vacation and—lo and behold!—a perfect mesh-style crocheted shawl pattern was featured on the label, so I just looked it up at Lionbrand.com. It was probably one of the easiest patterns I’ve ever worked on and is perfect for a beginner.If you Google “sparkle shawl,” the pattern comes up in several places, as well as in a PDF that you can just immediately download, but I’ve also provided the instructions for you below, since I used a 6 mm hook instead of the recommended 5 mm hook because I wanted a more substantial shawl.

Now… I’ve got my shawl—all I need is a plane ticket south!

SPARKLE SHAWL
-Approx. 19” wide x 58” long (unblocked)
-1 skein of Lion Brand Shawl in a Ball (5.3 oz./150 g/481 yd/440 m) Prism
-6 mm crochet hook
-Yarn needle for weaving in ends

INSTRUCTIONS
Ch 83.

Row 1: Dc in fifth ch from hook (4 skipped chs count as dc + ch 1), *ch 3, skip next 5 chs, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch; repeat from * to last 6 chs, ch 3, skip next 5 chs, (dc, ch 1, dc) in last ch.

Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), turn, dc in first ch-1 space, *ch 3, skip next ch-3 space, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-2 space; repeat from * to last ch-3 space, ch 3, skip last ch-3 space, (dc, ch 1, dc) in beginning ch-sp.

Repeat Row 2 until you’ve used up most of your yarn. Fasten off.

OPTIONAL: I made 4 tassels to place in each corner of the shawl. I’d never made a tassel before, so I watched this video and it was a big help: https://knitting-crochet.wonderhowto.com/how-to/make-tassel-0129500/In looking for something that was the right size to wind my yarn around, I discovered that using the cardboard cover of a pack of Dentyne Ice gum is a perfect tool for making tassels! (Don’t you just love discovering unconventional uses for household items?)To make my tassels, I wound my Prism yarn around the Dentyne cover (lengthwise) 20 times. Then I followed the exact process in the video example.Then, just to take it a little further, I chose four glass beads that I wanted to incorporate; and threaded each bead to the top of each tassel, then fastened each beaded tassel to each corner of my shawl. It was a bit fiddly, but I like the extra glitter. I tied a lot of knots to make sure each was securely fastened.

Little Spring Lamb

This sweet little lamb is a cuddly toy for little hands. The body is crocheted, the face and ears are cut from felt and sewn to the body, and the feet are tiny dollar store pompoms that are sewn on. The finished size of the toy is approx. 4-1/2” long.

MATERIALS:
Any thick and fuzzy white or off-white yarn
9 mm crochet hook
Stitch markers
A few handfuls of Fiberfill stuffing
A square of white crafting felt for face and ears
White thread and needle; black embroidery thread
4 tiny off-white pom poms for feet

BODY:
This is basically a ball crocheted in rounds. Using your white yarn and 9 mm hook:

Round 1: ch 4; sl st to make a ring; ch 1, 10 sc in ring (10 sc); use a stitch marker to mark your beginning sc from here on.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (20 sc)

Rounds 3-9: sc in each sc around (20 sc). Next row begins decreasing.

Round 10: sc in each of first 2 sc; sc2tog; *sc in each of next 2 sc; sc2tog; rep from * around.

Round 11: sc in first sc, sc2tog; *sc in next, sc2tog; rep from * around.
Stuff with Fiberfill.

Round 12: Continue *sc in next, sc2tog* until closed. Sl st to secure. Chain a couple more times to create a little tail. Fasten off and weave in end.

HEAD & EARS:
Cut 2 pieces of felt in shape shown for the head (approx. 2-1/2” long) and cut 2 little circles of felt for the ears (each a little under an inch).

With wrong sides together (with most felt, either side is fine), either hand sew or use a machine to sew the two head pieces together (see photos). Turn right side out and stuff with Fibrefill. Using white thread and sewing needle, sew to body. It’s a little fiddly, so I went around twice with the needle and thread to make sure it was fastened securely.

Next, starting with the first ear, pinch one end, then run the thread through it a couple times to secure the “pinch”. Then sew to one side of the head as shown. Repeat with the other ear on the other side of the head.

HAIR:
Crochet an additional little puff of “hair” for the top of its head. With your 9 mm hook and same fuzzy yarn: ch 3, sc in second ch from hook, and in first ch. Fasten off and weave end into row. Use your fingers to puff it up a bit, then sew it down to the top of the head between the ears, where the head meets the body. (You could always make a Donald Trump comb-over instead, but I don’t think that’s fair to the poor little lamb! 🙂

FACE:
For the eyes, I sewed on two black seed beads. If you prefer to skip the beads, just make two French knots with the black embroidery thread instead.

Use the black embroidery thread to straight-stitch the nose and mouth, as shown in the picture.

FEET:
Sew the four pom poms on the bottom of body (see picture).

Soft Green Spider Web Scarf/Shawl

This delicate scarf/shawl is made with a plush yarn that makes it surprisingly warm and there is a lot of length for wrapping around your shoulders on a cool summer evening.

Materials:

I lost the label for the yarn, but it’s a bulky plush. I’ve provided a photo so you can match it as closely as possible. I used a large ball (approx. 300 yds)

6.5 mm hook

Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Large pearl-look dollar-store beads

Beading needle and thread

PATTERN:

Chain 176.

Row 1: dc in 5th ch from hook (counts as dc, ch 2), 6 dc in same st, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch, ch 10, sk 10 ch, dc in next ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch, *7 dc in next ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch, ch 10, sk 10 ch, dc in next ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch; rep from* across, ending with 7 dc in next ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in 3rd ch of beg ch-5, turn.

Row 2: Ch 5, *7 dc in top of 4th dc of next 7-dc group, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 10, sk 10 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, rep from* across, ending with 7 dc in next ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in 3rd ch of beg ch-5, turn.

Repeat Row 2 until shawl is your desired depth. Mine measured a length of 80” x 15-1/2” deep.

Once finished, I neatened up both 15-1/2” ends with one row of sc.

TASSEL & PEARL FRINGE:

Next, I made tassels with pearl bead ends to attach to the last 7-dc group of the row, as shown in picture.

To make each tassel, I cut three 24” pieces of yarn; folded them in half; cut another piece of yarn about 10” long which I used to tied them together in the center of the fold with a knot; then kept winding that remaining piece of yarn into a knot until it because a round ball of a knot at the top of the fold where I made the first knot. Then I threaded the beading needle, stuck the needle in the bottom of the big round knot and brought the thread up through the top of the big knot, added a pearl bead so it sat on top of the big knot, then brought the needle up into the bottom of the last 7-dc group and stitched back and forth a few times to make sure the pearl and tassel were fixed securely in place. Then I knotted the thread and fastened off. I repeated this process along the bottom of the scarf/shawl, attaching pearls/tassels to the last 7-dc group of each row. I hope this makes sense. Refer to the photo (and my rough drawing below!) for visual description.

Your luggage will stand out from the rest with these pretty crocheted flowers!

I made these cute flowers to attach to my luggage to make it more identifiable on the airport carousel. You could probably also use them as key rings, attach them to sneakers or jacket buttons, etc. Whatever your intentions, you’ll enjoy making them! They’re quick to make, and a good project for beginners.I found this great pattern for Travel Blooms at the wonderful Fiber Flux blog: http://www.fiberfluxblog.com/2013/06/free-crochet-patterntravel-blooms.html

To make mine, I used Bernat Handicrafter cotton in different colours, then sewed a little pearl in the center to embellish.

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