Cozy Hooded Cowl Keeps Baby Warm!

I had some colorful, chunky yarn in my stash that I wanted to experiment with, so I decided to make a couple of little baby hoodies. I’ll guess that they would fit a child about 12 months. They are SO warm, soft and cuddly!

You’ll basically crochet a long rectangle, fold it in half, then seam together the edges on one side, starting from the fold and working down about 8 inches. To finish it, you’ll create a border around all the edges, then add fasteners to keep the bottom front closed.

Materials:

  • 8 mm crochet hook
  • 1 ball of bulky yarn in variegated colors, and one ball in a solid contrasting color
  • Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Instructions:

With variegated yarn, ch 69. Turn.

Row 1: dc in third ch from hook and in each across. Turn. (66 dc)

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next st and in each across. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 five more times. Your rectangle should be approximately 7” wide x 28” long.

Fold in half lengthwise, placing right sides together, wrong sides facing out. Using yarn needle, whipstitch edges together to make a seam where the X’s are shown. Stitch down from the fold about 8”.
It should look like this from the back when you’re finished:
Turn right side out to make your border. Attaching contrasting color at the bottom of your seam, hdc in each st right around entire hoodie. I made it so that it looks like it’s fastened with buttons, but in reality, it just needs to be pulled over the baby’s head. I did this by overlapping one bottom edge over top of the other, stitching them together, and then sewing two buttons on the front just as decoration. You can see what I mean in the photos below. In the blue and green version at the top, I just attached some yarn strings that I’ve tied into bows. You can finish yours however you prefer.

Since Otis is my baby, he was forced to model one!

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Warm up with a crocheted Cocoa Tweed Poncho

I really liked the look of Bernat’s brown tweed yarn, so I picked up 2 skeins and decided they would look good crocheted into a poncho. The yarn was really nice to work with, and it did indeed make a nice-looking finished project!

COCOA TWEED PONCHO
Materials:

2 skeins Bernat Premium Tweeds (7oz/198g/360yds/329m) Chocolate Tweed

8 mm hook

Shell = 3 dc in indicated sp

Note: Make 2 panels using the pattern below. I didn’t bother blocking this project since the yarn didn’t seem to need it.

Panel A:

Ch 60 + 2.

Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, *(sk 2 chs, shell in next, ch 2, sk 2, sc in next), rep from * to end, turn.

Row 2: ch 5, sc in first dc of next shell, *ch 5, sc in first dc of next shell), rep from * to last shell, ch 2, sk 2, dc in last st, turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc in same st as ch-1, *(shell in next sc, ch 2, sc in third ch of next ch-5 loop), rep from * across, shell in last sc, ch 2, sc in top of beg ch-3, turn.

Repeat Row 2 & 3 consecutively for 34 rows (ending with a Row 3), or until your rectangle is approximately 35” long.

Follow directions for Panel A to create your second rectangle (Panel B).

Construction

With wrong sides facing you, use a yarn needle to whipstitch the panels together as shown by the pink X’s.

Next, with wrong sides still facing you, fold the edge of Panel A over to the side of Panel B as shown by the arrows below. Whipstitch to seam together. When you’ve finished, turn right side out and smooth out into poncho shape.

Neckline

For a cleaner look and a better fit, we’ll make a border around the neckline, working on the right side. Attach yarn with a slip stitch anywhere on the neckline, and do an even row of sc around. Instead of joining when you arrive back at your first sc, use a marker and do continuous rounds so there’s no seam line. Do four more rounds of sc, then fasten off and weave in end.

Bottom Border

Also working on the right side, attach yarn with a slip stitch anywhere on the bottom edge, and do an evenly spaced row of sc right around. Again, use a marker and do continuous rounds for a better-looking finish. I did five rounds of sc for my border, but you can continue with more rounds if you want to make the poncho longer. After five rounds, fasten off and weave in end.

Sparkle Shawl

On one of my many trips to Michael’s, I discovered Lion Brand’s Shawl in a Ball yarn and absolutely fell in love with the metallic versions, particularly “Prism.” The blend of colors immediately brought back visions of exploring undersea reefs during some of my snorkeling adventures in the Caribbean.I knew right away that I wanted to use Prism to make a shawl that I could throw around my shoulders in the evening on my next cruise or beach vacation and—lo and behold!—a perfect mesh-style crocheted shawl pattern was featured on the label, so I just looked it up at Lionbrand.com. It was probably one of the easiest patterns I’ve ever worked on and is perfect for a beginner.If you Google “sparkle shawl,” the pattern comes up in several places, as well as in a PDF that you can just immediately download, but I’ve also provided the instructions for you below, since I used a 6 mm hook instead of the recommended 5 mm hook because I wanted a more substantial shawl.

Now… I’ve got my shawl—all I need is a plane ticket south!

SPARKLE SHAWL
-Approx. 19” wide x 58” long (unblocked)
-1 skein of Lion Brand Shawl in a Ball (5.3 oz./150 g/481 yd/440 m) Prism
-6 mm crochet hook
-Yarn needle for weaving in ends

INSTRUCTIONS
Ch 83.

Row 1: Dc in fifth ch from hook (4 skipped chs count as dc + ch 1), *ch 3, skip next 5 chs, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch; repeat from * to last 6 chs, ch 3, skip next 5 chs, (dc, ch 1, dc) in last ch.

Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), turn, dc in first ch-1 space, *ch 3, skip next ch-3 space, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-2 space; repeat from * to last ch-3 space, ch 3, skip last ch-3 space, (dc, ch 1, dc) in beginning ch-sp.

Repeat Row 2 until you’ve used up most of your yarn. Fasten off.

OPTIONAL: I made 4 tassels to place in each corner of the shawl. I’d never made a tassel before, so I watched this video and it was a big help: https://knitting-crochet.wonderhowto.com/how-to/make-tassel-0129500/In looking for something that was the right size to wind my yarn around, I discovered that using the cardboard cover of a pack of Dentyne Ice gum is a perfect tool for making tassels! (Don’t you just love discovering unconventional uses for household items?)To make my tassels, I wound my Prism yarn around the Dentyne cover (lengthwise) 20 times. Then I followed the exact process in the video example.Then, just to take it a little further, I chose four glass beads that I wanted to incorporate; and threaded each bead to the top of each tassel, then fastened each beaded tassel to each corner of my shawl. It was a bit fiddly, but I like the extra glitter. I tied a lot of knots to make sure each was securely fastened.

Crocheted infinity cowl scarf with a surprise pocket

I bought some fine yarn in grey and two shades of purple, and had an urge to use it to make some squares. This infinity cowl scarf is what evolved. I made 14 Box in a Box squares (pattern below) and one Flower in the Middle square (pattern also below) which I placed on top of one Box in a Box square to make the pocket. To be honest, I’ve found the pocket to be a bit awkward while wearing the cowl, so if I were to do this again, I’d just skip adding the pocket. Or it may work better if you added a couple of snap closures so it stays closed.

You can choose to make your cowl using 14 Box in a Box squares; or instead, use 14 Flower in the Middle squares; or you can mix things up and use 7 Box in a Box and 7 Flower in the Middle squares together. Whichever ones you use, I guarantee it will look nice when you’re finished.

Here are the square patterns:

Box in a Box Square

  • 5 mm crochet hook
  • Craft Knitting Yarn (picked up at the Dollar Store!) (3-4 mm/100 g/100% acrylic)
    2 balls Grey, 1 ball Dark Purple, 1 ball Light Purple
  • Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Square is approx. 6” x 6”, blocked.

Pattern:

Using dark purple, Ch 4, join with a sl st to make a ring.

Round 1: In ring: ch 3, 2 dc, *(ch 3, 3 dc), rep from * 2 more times, ch 3; use sl st to join.

Round 2: Ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner, dc in next dc, sk dc, dc in next dc; rep around; sl st to join. Fasten off purple and attach grey in same sp.

Round 3: Ch 3, dc in each of next 3 dc; *(2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner, dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, dc in next 3 dc, rep around, sl st to join.

Round 4: Ch 3, dc in next 5 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner, dc in next 5 dc, ch 1, dc in next 5 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner, rep around, sl st to join.

Round 5: Ch 3, dc in next 7 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner, dc in next 7 dc, ch 1, dc in next 7 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner, rep around, sl st to join.

Round 6: Ch 3, dc in next 9 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner, dc in next 9 dc, ch 1, dc in next 9 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner, rep around, sl st to join, fasten off and weave in end.

Seam together 2 rows of 7 squares each, alternating the dark and light purple centers. Then seam the 2 rows together, also taking care to alternate the colours. To make it an infinity, seam both ends together.

Optional Pocket: Make one Flower in the Middle square using the pattern below. Using a yarn needle and grey yarn, sew it along three sides over top of one of the squares in the upper row of your scarf, so that it forms a pocket.

Flower in the Middle square

Same materials as used for the Box in a Box square

Pattern:

Using dark purple, Ch 4, join with a sl st to make a ring.

Round 1: ch 3 (counts as first dc), 15 dc in ring. Sl st to join. Fasten off and attach light purple in any dc.

Round 2: ch 4, sk 1 dc, sc in top of next dc, (ch 3, sk 1 dc, sc in top of next dc) 6 times, ch 3, sk 1 dc, sl st to close.

Round 3: (hdc, dc, 2 tr, dc, hdc, sl st) in first ch-3 sp, rep in next 7 ch-3 sps. Sl st to close. (8 petals made) Fasten off light purple and attach grey in middle tr of any petal.

Round 4: (ch 7, sl st into tr of next petal) around, sl st to close.

Round 5: sl st in first ch-7 sp, ch 3, (5 dc, ch 2, 6 dc) in same ch-sp, 6 hdc in next ch-7 sp, (6 dc, ch 2, 6 dc) in next ch-7 sp, rep around, 6 hdc in last ch-7 sp, sl st to close.

Round 6: ch 3 in ch-sp, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same ch-sp, dc in next 18 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-sp, rep 3 times, 18 dc in next 18 sts, sl st to close.

Round 7: ch 1 in same st as sl st, sc in next st, (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in ch-sp, sc in each of next 22 sts, (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in next ch-sp, rep 3 times, sc in each of next 20 sts, sl st to close. Fasten off and weave in end.

Little Spring Lamb

This sweet little lamb is a cuddly toy for little hands. The body is crocheted, the face and ears are cut from felt and sewn to the body, and the feet are tiny dollar store pompoms that are sewn on. The finished size of the toy is approx. 4-1/2” long.

MATERIALS:
Any thick and fuzzy white or off-white yarn
9 mm crochet hook
Stitch markers
A few handfuls of Fiberfill stuffing
A square of white crafting felt for face and ears
White thread and needle; black embroidery thread
4 tiny off-white pom poms for feet

BODY:
This is basically a ball crocheted in rounds. Using your white yarn and 9 mm hook:

Round 1: ch 4; sl st to make a ring; ch 1, 10 sc in ring (10 sc); use a stitch marker to mark your beginning sc from here on.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (20 sc)

Rounds 3-9: sc in each sc around (20 sc). Next row begins decreasing.

Round 10: sc in each of first 2 sc; sc2tog; *sc in each of next 2 sc; sc2tog; rep from * around.

Round 11: sc in first sc, sc2tog; *sc in next, sc2tog; rep from * around.
Stuff with Fiberfill.

Round 12: Continue *sc in next, sc2tog* until closed. Sl st to secure. Chain a couple more times to create a little tail. Fasten off and weave in end.

HEAD & EARS:
Cut 2 pieces of felt in shape shown for the head (approx. 2-1/2” long) and cut 2 little circles of felt for the ears (each a little under an inch).

With wrong sides together (with most felt, either side is fine), either hand sew or use a machine to sew the two head pieces together (see photos). Turn right side out and stuff with Fibrefill. Using white thread and sewing needle, sew to body. It’s a little fiddly, so I went around twice with the needle and thread to make sure it was fastened securely.

Next, starting with the first ear, pinch one end, then run the thread through it a couple times to secure the “pinch”. Then sew to one side of the head as shown. Repeat with the other ear on the other side of the head.

HAIR:
Crochet an additional little puff of “hair” for the top of its head. With your 9 mm hook and same fuzzy yarn: ch 3, sc in second ch from hook, and in first ch. Fasten off and weave end into row. Use your fingers to puff it up a bit, then sew it down to the top of the head between the ears, where the head meets the body. (You could always make a Donald Trump comb-over instead, but I don’t think that’s fair to the poor little lamb! 🙂

FACE:
For the eyes, I sewed on two black seed beads. If you prefer to skip the beads, just make two French knots with the black embroidery thread instead.

Use the black embroidery thread to straight-stitch the nose and mouth, as shown in the picture.

FEET:
Sew the four pom poms on the bottom of body (see picture).

Handsome Otis models an ice-cream sundae hat

He’s not particularly fond of ice-cream, but nevertheless, poor Otis found himself coerced into modelling my spool-knitted “ice-cream sundae hat.”
Much to Otis’s dismay, I recently felt an urge to try some spool knitting, or as we used to call it when we were kids, “corking.”

I can remember my best friend and I learning to cork using old wooden thread spools with four nails hammered into the tops of each. Today’s spool knitters are much fancier, not that the results are any better than what we got from those old wooden spools!I had a collection of bits and pieces of old yarn ends, so I corked a long cord, then wound it around and hand-sewed it together to create the “sundae.”
Next, I used some red yarn to make a pompom: the cherry on top.
It is Otis’s plea that I refrain from using him to model any more yarn fashions.

“Get this @#%$!!! hat OFF me!”

Otis likes to keep a close eye on Backyard Bunny

He has suggested that, instead, I consider using his good friend, Backyard Bunny, as my model—that is, if I am ever able to catch him!

Soft Green Spider Web Scarf/Shawl

This delicate scarf/shawl is made with a plush yarn that makes it surprisingly warm and there is a lot of length for wrapping around your shoulders on a cool summer evening.

Materials:

I lost the label for the yarn, but it’s a bulky plush. I’ve provided a photo so you can match it as closely as possible. I used a large ball (approx. 300 yds)

6.5 mm hook

Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Large pearl-look dollar-store beads

Beading needle and thread

PATTERN:

Chain 176.

Row 1: dc in 5th ch from hook (counts as dc, ch 2), 6 dc in same st, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch, ch 10, sk 10 ch, dc in next ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch, *7 dc in next ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch, ch 10, sk 10 ch, dc in next ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch; rep from* across, ending with 7 dc in next ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in 3rd ch of beg ch-5, turn.

Row 2: Ch 5, *7 dc in top of 4th dc of next 7-dc group, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 10, sk 10 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, rep from* across, ending with 7 dc in next ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in 3rd ch of beg ch-5, turn.

Repeat Row 2 until shawl is your desired depth. Mine measured a length of 80” x 15-1/2” deep.

Once finished, I neatened up both 15-1/2” ends with one row of sc.

TASSEL & PEARL FRINGE:

Next, I made tassels with pearl bead ends to attach to the last 7-dc group of the row, as shown in picture.

To make each tassel, I cut three 24” pieces of yarn; folded them in half; cut another piece of yarn about 10” long which I used to tied them together in the center of the fold with a knot; then kept winding that remaining piece of yarn into a knot until it because a round ball of a knot at the top of the fold where I made the first knot. Then I threaded the beading needle, stuck the needle in the bottom of the big round knot and brought the thread up through the top of the big knot, added a pearl bead so it sat on top of the big knot, then brought the needle up into the bottom of the last 7-dc group and stitched back and forth a few times to make sure the pearl and tassel were fixed securely in place. Then I knotted the thread and fastened off. I repeated this process along the bottom of the scarf/shawl, attaching pearls/tassels to the last 7-dc group of each row. I hope this makes sense. Refer to the photo (and my rough drawing below!) for visual description.

Fruity coasters go perfectly with fruity drinks on the patio!

If you want to work on a quick, easy and fun project, this is ideal, and it’s also great for beginners. I found a lovely site with free patterns for Green Apple coasters, Watermelon coasters and Lemon coasters. All so cute!

You’ll find the patterns here, compliments of Christine Longe, at her Lakeview Cottage Kids website:

http://www.lakeviewcottagekids.com/2014/05/another-free-crochet-coaster-pattern.html

 

Your luggage will stand out from the rest with these pretty crocheted flowers!

I made these cute flowers to attach to my luggage to make it more identifiable on the airport carousel. You could probably also use them as key rings, attach them to sneakers or jacket buttons, etc. Whatever your intentions, you’ll enjoy making them! They’re quick to make, and a good project for beginners.I found this great pattern for Travel Blooms at the wonderful Fiber Flux blog: http://www.fiberfluxblog.com/2013/06/free-crochet-patterntravel-blooms.html

To make mine, I used Bernat Handicrafter cotton in different colours, then sewed a little pearl in the center to embellish.

My little dolly is tutu cute!

I was playing with the versatile Bernat Handicrafter cotton yarn and made this little doll, just because.

I didn’t write out the pattern as I went along, but if you can crochet in simple rounds, then you can make her too. She doesn’t have to be perfect—experiment and make her any size you like.

Materials:
• Bernat Handicrafter cotton in hot pink, orange and yellow (or any choice of colours)
• 3.75 mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle for sewing
• Scrap yellow yarn for the hair
• Fiberfill stuffing
Optional: scrap of fabric netting to make the tutu

Instructions:

Head: Using yellow cotton, ch 4 and make a ring;

Round 1: 4 sc in ring (use a marker and crochet in continuous rounds)

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (8 sc)

Round 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 2 sc,
*2 sc in next, sc in next 2; rep * around

Round 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 3 sc,
*2 sc in next, sc in next 3; rep * around

Rounds 5 & 6: sc in each sc around

Round 7: start decreasing rounds: *sc dec in first 2 sc, sc in next sc,
rep * around. Stuff head as much as you can, then continue rounds.

Rounds 8-10: Keep decreasing around until you can slip stitch opening closed. When you fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing head to the body.

Body: Start out same as the head, but increase more and add more rows of sc to make bigger and fatter. I did half the body in hot pink and the other half in orange.

Legs: I used yellow for the first few rounds, then variegated pink and orange for the rest of the legs. Start out same as the head, just make sure to only increase in the first couple of rounds so you’ll make tube shapes instead of ball shapes, add more even rounds of sc to make the shape longer, and then start decreasing when the legs are long enough. When you fasten off, leave a long enough tail on each leg to sew to the body.

Arms: Same as the legs, just shorter. I made half the arm orange, the other half pink.

Use yarn needle and yarn tail to sew arms, legs and head onto body.

Hair: Using the yellow scrap yarn, I cut many lengths of about 5”. Then I started at the top of the head and, using the yarn needle, pulled a piece of yarn through and around one sc, made them even, then tied a knot around the sc. I did that with each piece of yarn until I’d covered the top and most of the back of the head. I cut shorter pieces and did the same process at the front to make bangs. Then I pulled through about 6 pieces at the top and tied a piece of pink yarn around them to make a little ponytail that sticks up. Once finished, I trimmed the “hair” so the back would be relatively even. But I didn’t expect it to be perfect, so the hair is a little choppy in areas. She’s perfectly cute even if she isn’t perfect!

Face: I used size 3 crochet cotton thread in dark grey and red. First, I used the grey to make two French knots for eyes (wound it around the needle a good three times so the eyes would be prominent). Then I used the red to stitch on her mouth.

Optional tutu: I was impatient to finish her off at this point, so I didn’t sew this as neatly as I should have. Anyway, I just cut a piece of fabric netting a bit larger than the width of her tummy. Then I folded over the top about a quarter inch and stitched it down with a needle and thread so that it left a pocket along the top that I could run a piece of yarn through. I also roughly seamed together the back ends. Then I used my yarn needle to run the yarn around the top, pulled the tutu up to her waist, and tied the yarn in a bow, which made the tutu gather at the waist.

Hope these instructions are clear enough. As I said earlier, if you can crochet in rounds, then you won’t have any problems making this doll.

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